APPALACHIA ANEW

From northern Mississippi to southern New York, this sprawling region is home to all things foraged, dried, pickled, and preserved. But it's so much more than its age-old traditions. Appalachian food today is a reflection of its past and future, shaped by those who weather its near-constant change

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When you hear “Appalachia,” what comes to mind? I see ancient mountains and lush forests that provide the backbone of our 13-state region; an amalgam of bustling cities and rural hollers, with a globally connected economy pulsing at its center since colonization. Salt, timber, coal, and natural gas industries have provided for families while at times also leaving deep wounds on both the land and people. Yes, the region is often characterized by its struggles. But as someone born and raised in Appalachia, it’s strange to encounter the same stale stereotypes over and over again in books, movies, and even the news (of hillbillies holed up in a culturally isolated place or families battling addiction and poverty).

The Appalachia I know is far from isolated. There is joy, beauty, and ease here too. Our vast diversity is perhaps most clearly expressed in our food—a reflection of the varied histories of Native American, European, African, Middle Eastern, Southeast Asian, and Latinx communities that continue to make a home in these mountains.

New challenges are upon us. In July 2022 a historic flood—the direct result of climate change—devastated eastern Kentucky, in the heart of Appalachia. I spent my days distributing cash aid, coordinating water tanker deliveries, and visiting disaster relief centers. Lives had been lost, tens of thousands of families left displaced. Hundreds of our neighbors were going to enter winter living in tents.