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Machine Learning

WOW Singapore

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Issue 74

The mechanical calendar has been perfected over the last 100 years; it remains a challenge that invites multiple watchmaking and engineering approaches. We get into the nuts and bolts of how the perpetual calendar gets the job done

- ASHOK SOMAN

Machine Learning

It may surprise you to learn that the perpetual calendar is probably the simplest of all the high complications to make and to understand. That is a bold assertion, to be sure, especially if you arrived here after the lengthy missive on the evolution of our contemporary calendar. Well, we will be walking that back immediately. Confusingly, the perpetual calendar (or various executions of it) can be particularly challenging for watchmakers, and the results vary from highly complicated to heavily pared down. On the other hand, it can also be rather ho-hum, with established movements having proven track records for decades. It would be centuries but wristwatches have only been with for so long.

This can be understood with some context: while the mechanical perpetual calendar does impressive work, it has been through a period of relative inactivity, which we are arguably still living through. To be clear, by inactivity here we mean very little in the way of new ideas, just as base mechanical movements themselves saw virtually no improvements since the debut of the workhorse ETA 2892 calibre. Consider that the Swiss lever escapement is dominant in mechanical watchmaking, and that system had been refined more than 100 years ago (see our escapement specials for more, via Luxuo.com).

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NEW DAWN

Grand Seiko's Spring Drive UFA SLGB005 takes inspiration from the break of day for the latest edition of the brand's \"Ice Forest\" dial pattern

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BLUE RIBBON

The Zenith Chronomaster Original with a tricolour dial is now available in the brand's signature hue

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Forty years after its original launch of the RockWatch, Tissot revives the model with a limited-edition reissue presented at the place where it all began: in the Swiss Alps

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ONCE MORE, WITH FEELING

Those who think all watch manufactures are the same will be aghast to learn that we visited Parmigiani Fleurier a second time. There are still things we could learn in a third visit...

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Issue 81

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