Need for seed

At the quiet tip of a quiet valley in north Sikkim, the people of Pentong village demonstrate, through a time-honoured tradition, that our best hope for the future lies in looking back at the past.

- By JANICE PARIAT. Photographed by PAGEL LEPCHA.

There is a valley, they say, bounded by high mountains to the west, the shimmering Teesta River in the southeast and the clear Tholung Chu flowing in the northeast, where you may find a thousand shades of green. The way is long and takes you to the edge of the north of Sikkim, to Dzongu Valley, the heartland of the Lepcha people. From there, you travel even further, to the last inhabited place in the region, the village of Pentong.

Dzongu Valley is dotted with numerous small villages—Hee-Gyathang and its mysterious lake; Kusong, which sprouts sweet-smelling cardamom; Noom Panang and Passingdang, which lead you to Lingzya waterfall, cutting through the mountain like a silver knife. But Pentong is special. Along with the nearby Sakyong village, it is considered by the Lepchas to be a gateway to Mayal Lyang, a hidden land blessed by God. To get to Pentong from Lingzya, you must walk—for all good things only lie at the end of unmotorable trails—through lush alpine forests all abloom, traverse thrillingly steep cliffs and cross woven bamboo cane bridges. All the while, the mighty Khangchendzonga follows, keeping close watch.