FRESH, FORAGED &Fine

Notable Indian chefs are embarking on foraging expeditions, uncovering the country's rich regional produce & bringing it back to their restaurants reports Isha Mayer

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My first experience of foraging came during a culinary trip to Nagaland in 2023, organised by OMO Cafe, Gurugram. As we made our way to Mon town, I watched in fascination as Naga locals and OMO chefs suddenly stepped out of the car and began picking fresh ingredients right in the middle of the road. It was then that I learned how seamlessly foraging is woven into daily life in Nagaland. Plucking plantains and other wild ingredients to use in everyday meals isn't just a trend; it's a way of life. For many tribal and indigenous communities across India, it's also a vital means of livelihood.

Back then, Chef Vanshika Bhatia was at the helm of OMO's kitchen. Inspired by her interactions with local farmers and chefs, she returned from the trip with a fresh perspective, incorporating traditional Naga cooking techniques and ingredients (like Timur pepper and stinky beans) into her menu. Many Indian chefs have also been on this path, embracing foraging as a way to reconnect with indigenous culinary traditions, and then bring that knowledge to diners through a menu that features India's lesser-known produce. They're making this fine dining experience fun by not just introducing diners to new Indian ingredients but also encouraging them to step out of their comfort zones, expanding their palates in the process.

A RECONNECTION WITH ROOTS