Fine, without the Fuss

At Papa's, Chef Hussain Shahzad invites you into his whimsical world where all the rules of fine dining are broken, writes Isha Mayer

- Isha Mayer

“I’d like to describe the menu we’ve chosen for you this evening as a journey from Thayir Sadam (curd rice in Tamil) to caviar and everything in between,” announced Chef Hussain Shahzad, Executive Chef at Huncer Inc. Hospitality, as I sat down for my dining experience at Papa’s, the new restaurant that sits right above the buzzing Veronica’s sandwich shop in Bandra, Mumbai. The culinary venture, which quickly became the talk of the town, comes from the team behind O Pedro, The Bombay Canteen, Bombay Sweet Shop and Veronica’s.

The name Papa’s honours the late Chef Floyd Cardoz, Shahzad’s mentor and the one who actually launched The Bombay Canteen and O Pedro. However, the cuisine at Papa’s reflects Chef Shahzad’s personal style.

Expect the unexpected

I entered a space reminiscent of a 1980s-style Bandra home, filled with amusement, wonder and delight—a fine dining setup without the usual intimidation. “We wanted to replace formality with comfort, creating an environment where guests can truly relax and enjoy their meals. That’s how Papa’s was born. We conceived it as an intimate 12-seater chef’s counter restaurant which offers a dining adventure that is Indian in its soul and surprising in spirit. Fine dining is often seen as boring and stiff. Papa’s is about enjoying great food and cocktails in a fun, relaxed space,” the chef explains.