Hungarian Rhapsody

Four Seasons offers refined pleasures in a majestic structure on the Danube

- BY NICK REMSEN

THE FOUR SEASONS Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest in Hungary displays an architectural fusion that doesn't come across as radical, but rather just the right mix of periods. Built in 1906 as the Hungarian headquarters for the Gresham Life Assurance Society, the converted property now plays host to presidents, prime ministers and pop stars, all of whom are discreetly ferried through its soaring lobby and beneath its wrought-iron flourishes. This place opened as a Four Seasons in 2004 following extensive renovations and repair by the company. For decades under communist rule, the Palace's stature withered, eventually becoming derelict by the late 20th century. But that's all far in the rearview mirror now.

The Gresham Palace's rooms are spacious and well-appointed, with cool palettes that blend nicely with regal proportions. Suites face the Danube River, which cuts a swath in front of the hotel beyond a small plaza and thoroughfare, over which locals and tourists amble. It's not unusual to grab a bottle of wine and sit along the Danube's bank at sunset.