RING OF FIRE

A MEMORABLE PASSAGE FROM FIJI TO AUSTRALIA FOR KATE ASHE-LEONARD

- Kate Ashe-Leonard

Our hulls cut through the translucent waters of the lagoon around Fiji's largest island, Viti Levu. As we make our way towards the pass, the wind is a perfect 10 knots. I catch my partner Jim's eye; he grins back at me. We've spent weeks waiting for this weather window. The forecast is for a comfortable, downwind passage with wind up to 25 knots and a moderate swell from behind that should help push us along to Tanna Island, Vanuatu.

White choppy currents swirl like boiling water in the pass. My stomach churns, but we've been through so many passes in the Pacific I tell myself there's nothing to fear. Up ahead our friend on a catamaran - one of several boats to leave in the same weather window has two reefs in his mainsail and I wonder if there is something we don't know? We're in the wind shadow of the island, but from where we are conditions look moderate. Nevertheless, we furl away our genoa to keep life simple as we exit the lagoon.

I take a moment to glance back at the island's outline as it shrinks in our wake. We've spent three months exploring Fiji, but it's October and the time has come to leave. After Vanuatu, we're bound for Australia where we'll spend cyclone season and fulfil bucket list dreams to anchor beside the Opera House to watch New Year's Eve fireworks. That all feels a long way just now.

FIJI TO VANUATU

Through the pass and further from Viti Levu, the wind begins to clock around, shifting by 90° to our port beam and intensifying. In the distance two monohulls heel over and I can see gusts agitating the surface of the water, barrelling towards us. Jim calmly helms our Catana 47 Polaris, keeping the apparent wind speed down until it is safe to reef.

At last, with enough clearance from the jagged outer reef, we turn into the wind and put two reefs in the mainsail. Within fifteen minutes it's blowing 35 knots.