PERFECTING PORTUGAL

For many, Portugal means package holidays on the Algarve. Touring the country's northern region, Caroline Mills found much more to explore

- By Caroline Mills

Oppressive heat reigned across the core of the Iberian Peninsula. The Extremadura region, bordering Portugal in the far west of Spain, had proved extreme in both beauty and its energy-sapping temperatures.

Don't ask me why, but a hop across the border to the Alentejo region of Portugal - renowned for high summer temperatures and a distinct wind of change blew across the Great Lake of Alqueva.

The Alqueva, covering some 250 sq km, is one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe. Set on the River Guadiana, its construction involved submerging an entire village. Aldeia da Luz, where I spent my first night, was the replacement; there's a fascinating little museum explaining the local history.

With renewed vigour as the temperatures notched down, I stepped out onto the wooden boardwalk over the lake. Little fish darted here and there in the water as larks harmonised up above. Portugal was shining bright already.

Alentejo Wine Route

Passing through Mourão, a hilltop whitewashed town with an impressive 13th-century fortress that offers immense views of both Portugal and Spain, I travelled cross-country to Redondo.

Alentejo's landscape is typified by its ancient montado agroforestry system of holm and cork oaks over pastures where cattle, sheep and pigs roam beneath the trees. Traditional herdades estate farmhouses enhance the scene; Redondo forms the central agricultural hub of the whole area, a delightful place of whitewashed homes coloured by vibrant blue and yellow borders.

Alentejo is also known for its winegrowing and I picked up a short stretch of the Alentejo Wine Route, through hectares of vines producing magnificent ruby reds and crisp whites.