OUT ON THE RANGE

The western part of the Flinders Ranges offers some challenging tracks for four-wheel drivers, as well as rich history, unique station stays and remarkable rock formations

- KEV SMITH

MY VISITS to the stunning Flinders Ranges in South Australia have always been to the eastern side to explore the popular tourist spots of Wilpena Pound and Arkaroola, but on my last visit I also explored the western region of the range.

Starting at Hawker, about 400km north of Adelaide, now known as the hub for the Flinders, it is the last stop for supplies both now and when it was settled just prior to 1850. Its position was strategic when settled as it was near the railway line, and where tracks and roads run along ridge lines and through the gaps of the mountains allowing access to the eastern fringes.

Back in the day the Hawker area was known for some of the best wheat in the country and the town boasted four flour mills. The railway line was a vital connection for the area and further north, during WWII, nearly 20,000 servicemen plus loads of equipment passed through Hawker on their way to Darwin. The next decade saw floods and droughts ravage the area, and eventually the line and businesses closed. Today the town thrives on tourism and the passing trade. Around Hawker there are plenty of abandoned buildings from its heyday that dot the landscape.

BELTANA

HEADING north along the Outback Highway, with the spectacular ranges to my right, the afternoon sun highlighted the highs and lows of the rugged mountain range. My goal was 125km to the north for the turn-off to Beltana and then eventually Warraweena Station.