Of Feasts And Fairs

On June 21, 2017, Vinexpo closed its doors on the 20th edition of a venerable fair that for many remains the epitome of what an exhibition should be

- Joel B Payne

When Vinexpo was launched in 1981 it was a one of a kind event, a sneak preview of similar fairs that have, over the past generation, transformed our perception of wine. With 524 exhibitors from 21 countries and 11,000 visitors, it was only a fraction of its current size, but it inaugurated and, indeed, led the globalisation that now defines what wines are on offer in shops in New York, Tokyo and Delhi.

In a sense, Bordeaux is still more an event than an exhibition. Many importers come primarily for the festivities held each evening at numerous noble properties scattered throughout the region, from Pauillac and Pessac to Pomerol. At midnight, the skies are inevitably alive with fireworks. At one, Angelo Gaja tauntingly criticised the elite Grand Cru producers for not being personally present at Vinexpo, but using it instead to attract clients for their personal parties.