Shiva In Umerkot

An ancient Shiv temple has the pride of place in Umerkot, birthplace of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, in thar desert, Pakistan (continued from the previous issue)

- Reema Abbasi

Silence returns to homes and streets for siesta hours. As Thar’s remarkable warmth and hospitality will not permit a guest to wander out alone, it’s an appropriate time to explore many jewels among the dunes.

The most prominent of these is the Shiv Mandir. It presides over the desert with a deluge of colour.

Kirtan Peel carved on a rock directs travellers to it from the rough main road.

In Rajasthani curvilinear design with a glittering mirror-worked matki as its khalasha, Shiv Mandir stands on a mound in saffron and red. The temple grounds are laid out on 88 acres and a crimson staircase leads to the top sanctum. The central sanctum sanctorum is large, decorated in intricately patterned stone terrazzo. Burgundy and dark saffron additions on the floor are relatively new and far from garish.

On one side, in wild vegetation, lie two graves of ancient priests, which have seen centuries pass.