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A CHEF'S GUIDE TO… Istanbul, Turkey
Gourmet Traveller
|January 2022
From local lokantas to the best döner, chef MAKSUT AŞKAR shares his tips on where to eat and drink in Turkey’s largest city.
Neolokal, chef Maksut Askar’s restaurant inside the SALT Galata museum, is one of Istanbul’s most exciting fine-diners and draws heavily on Askar’s southern Turkish heritage. Although Askar was born in Hatay – a province on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast – he has developed a strong understanding of the diversity of Anatolian cuisine. Best of all, he knows where to find these regional flavours in Istanbul. Prepare to have your Turkish food horizons broadened at these must-visit locations.
A FARM-TO-TABLE CAFÉ I spend two weekends a month in Yeniköy, which is home to one of my favourite cafés: Apartıman. It’s run by four siblings. One brother is in charge of the restaurant, one sister is in charge of the morning menu and the other sister is in charge of the evening menu. They also have a farm in Kırklareli City, which is close to the Bulgarian border, that the second brother takes care of. Here, they grow ingredients for their restaurant and make amazing cheeses.
FOOD FROM HATAY PROVINCE Çiya Sofrası is the restaurant that I have been visiting for the longest. Zeynep Abla, the chef and wife of owner Musa, is from my hometown. She remembers me coming to the restaurant with my mum when I was in secondary school – about 30 years ago. Whatever I was having there then, I am still having today; the quality hasn’t changed. I go there to eat seasonal home-cooking made with traditional recipes I grew up with.
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