Making Ethical Fashion Chic

Everlane goes to China to pick a new bag factory.

- Susan Berfield

Michael Preysman has come to China on a warm day in October to confront a young executive whose family owns the Dongguan factory that makes his popular backpacks. Preysman is the fast-talking founder and chief executive officer of Everlane, the five-year-old online clothing company committed to, and capitalizing on, “radical transparency” about where its shirts, sweaters, T-shirts, pants, coats, shoes, and bags are made and how much they cost to make. Its influence is greater than its size suggests: Everlane has been called “the Internet’s smartest clothing brand” (Fader) and the next J.Crew (Racked). “We want the look of Céline and the ethics of Patagonia,” Preysman says.

In May 2014 the Dongguan factory shipped almost 1,000 Everlane backpacks with the strap buckles on backward, and they went out to customers without anyone noticing. The company had to recall the bags. Preysman is also concerned about the factory’s low score on a recent audit of its working conditions.

“I had to tell him he’s our No. 1 problem,” Preysman says shortly after a meeting with the executive. “We’re his smallest client, so I thought maybe he just doesn’t care,” he adds. “But he says he wants to keep our business.” Preysman is visiting two other factories on this trip; Everlane will select one to take over some—or all— of its bag production if it doesn’t keep all its business in Dongguan.