Bran Awareness

A feather-light white sponge is an elegant treat, but the less refined version is ultimately more rewarding, writes Paulette Whitney.

- Paulette Whitney

Is there anything better than a sponge cake, sandwiched with Nanna’s raspberry jam and clouds of whipped cream? Perhaps, if the mood takes us, we’ll use a gilt and floral plate, and even go to the trouble of sprinkling icing sugar through a doily to create a lacy crown for our confection.

It’s a funny thing, in this time-poor world, to spend an hour or two building something that’s gone in an instant – or less if there are children over to play. You’ve scrubbed the mixing bowl and whisk to remove any trace of fat that could interfere with the eggs rising, you’ve triple-sifted flour, lined tins and done that ridiculous thing with the doily, and, precisely because of your light touch, because of the delicacy of egg, sugar, flour and air, the thing you’ve made requires little work from the jaw, and even less digestion. If it’s not all gone in a flash the wisest baker will discreetly whisk the plate from the table while there’s still a piece remaining to be enjoyed in secret while tidying the kitchen.