TOOR TOUR

What makes pigeon pea so ubiquitous across cuisines in India

- VIBHA VARSHNEY

DURING A trip from Dehdraun to Chamoli in Uttarakhand, I stopped at a small stall for a cup of tea. Next to it was a farmer selling produce. Among his offerings were small, brown-red seeds, which he called pahadi tor (local pronunciation for toor). I bought a small packet for ₹50. This happened in March 2022. At the time, I and most probably the farmer, were not aware that efforts were underway to get this legume a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The official application was submitted the next month by SEWA Koshish Kisaan Utpadak Swayatt Sahkarita, a farmer-producer organisation (FPO) in Tehri Garhwal, with support from the state's organic commodity board, department of agriculture and farmers welfare and National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development.

A GI tag is a form of an intellectual property right, given to produce with a distinct geographical origin, reputation or characteristics inherent to that location. Debates could arise on whether the pahadi toor fits the bill; in scientific lexicon, the legume is called Cajanus cajan, exactly the same as the common pigeon pea or arhar found across the plains. However, according to the FPO, the toor's uniqueness lies in the fact that it can grow even at elevations of 2,000 metres as a short-duration variety, and in its drought tolerance, which makes it suitable for cultivation as a rain-fed crop. Pahadi toor is grown across Uttarakhand, but Chamoli, Almora, Tehri Garhwal, Nainital, Pithoragarh and Champawat districts are the main production areas. As it is grown organically in an unpolluted environment, it has a distinct rich, earthy flavour, claimed the GI tag application.

The FPO's bid was successful, and the Geographical Indication Registry in Chennai awarded the toor a GI tag in November 2023.