We still cook in the same kitchen at Highclere, which has been used for hundreds of years. It’s the same space but very differently adapted. There’s still a patisserie with a cold marble top and it’s the best place for making pastry. There are two game larders – we’ve turned one into a walk-in freezer and the other into a walk-in fridge. There was a smoking house just above the stove. They would put hay in there and smoke fish and meat. It was really well set up to feed a large household.
There were 100 gardeners in 1908. The cook would have gone up to the kitchen garden and would have given them a list of what she wanted for the day. In a larger house like this, you had 14 footmen, three butlers, the chefs, the under chefs, the sous chefs, the kitchen porters. You had a lot more support. And they prided themselves on the quality of the food.
This story is from the November 2021 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the November 2021 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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