Wonders of WINCHESTER

Ancient history and scenic walks await in this gorgeous Hampshire city

- CHRIS MORLEY

England's first capital, Winchester, is a well-preserved gem, its tight lanes and alleyways jammed with historic treats, from medieval palaces to a world-famous cathedral. Yet it's far from being stuck in the past, with a lively centre that's teeming with cool galleries, shops and restaurants.

Winchester Cathedral

This medieval masterpiece draws coachloads of visitors, but still holds regular services, including evensong. Take a pew inside and gaze at the soaring Gothic nave, Europe's largest. Then seek out treasures like rare 12th-century wall paintings embellishing the Holy Sepulchre chapel, and the statue of William Walker, whose work as a diver helped shore up the cathedral's sinking foundations in the early 20th century. Jane Austen is buried here too, along with a host of kings, queens and bishops.

The crypt is where young evacuees from bombed-out Portsmouth and Southampton slept in safety during World War Two. It frequently floods in winter and the reflective water adds to the ethereal effect of its famous sculpture - entitled Sound II – a lead-cast figure with a bowed head made by Sir Antony Gormley. It's well worth taking one of the guided tours included in the admission price (£13.50; winchester-cathedral.org.uk).