A taste of home

One of the jewels in the crown of Indian and Cape Malay cooking is a well-made biryani (also called 'breyani' in the Western Cape) with lamb, mutton, chicken or fish.

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Originally a Moghul-Indian dish from Old Persia, it made its way to South Africa when Indian labourers were brought here under British rule during the 19th century.

While the original Moghul-Indian biryani is mild and refined, South African versions are more robustly spiced, especially in Indian communities.

It is served at most large festive gatherings in Indian and Cape Muslim communities, with layers of fragrant basmati rice (tinged yellow with saffron), tender marinated meat, soft lentils, steamed potatoes and a quintessential topping of boiled eggs.

Although biryani has a long list of ingredients and making it can be time-consuming, the fragrant result is always worth it. The pride and care that goes into making a biryani is part of the ritual, and therefore the mark of a truly special occasion.

This version is a crossover South African biryani, with the option to keep it mild (with garam masala) or make it hot (with Kashmiri masala).

1 MARINADE

• 500 ml (2 cups) plain yoghurt

• 2 large ripe tomatoes, grated

• 30 ml (2 tbsp) biryani/breyani masala

• 15ml (1 tbsp) mild garam masala (or hot Kashmiri masala)

• 10ml (2 tsp) ground cumin

• 10ml (2 tsp) ground coriander

• 5ml (1 tsp) ground turmeric

• a pinch of ground cardamom (optional)

• 2 cinnamon sticks

• 30 ml (2 tbsp) crushed or grated ginger

• 15ml (1 tbsp) crushed or grated garlic

• 5ml (1 tsp) salt

• 1.2kg-1.5kg lamb stewing portion

RICE

• 3 cups basmati rice

• 1 stick cinnamon

• 3 cardamom pods, bruised

• 1½ l (6 cups) water

• 5ml (1 tsp) salt