Baaghini Where Tigresses Reign

After a quick call with Kalponika Bhattacharya, I found myself on my way to the Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve.

- by Bhavna Menon

While the reserve is well-known, I truly appreciated the unique and tranquil experience of staying at a quaint homestay in the Aravalli mountains. Baaghini, translating as tigress in Bengali, stands as a testament to the power of nature and human resilience in solitude. As I drove toward it on my first night, I was awed by the countless stars that guided us down the muddy track to a single light shining through one of the homestay's windows.

With winter making its exit from the country, we were fortunate to breathe in the still-chilly evening air as we arrived at the property. Comprising just five rooms, the homestay offers a uniquely aesthetic experience, with each room named after iconic tigresses from the reserve. Simple yet comfortable, the space is enhanced by locally made 'charpais,' (handmade cots) which add to its charm.

My favourite part of Baaghini was the terrace, which, as soon as you step onto it, transports you to a breathtaking landscape that you may have known existed but rarely experienced. The vast expanse of the mountains, adorned under a night sky filled with stars, the distress call of a deer in the distance, and the sounds of birds settling in for the night all create a wonderful atmosphere. The twinkling temple lights in the distance complement the starlight, and the silence encourages you to listen to your breath and thoughts, often drowned out by the noise of city life.

For those who enjoy good food, the homestay is a flavourful experience. Most days and evenings are filled with the aroma of fresh, hot dishes prepared by the wonderful culinary team, featuring local recipes along with homemade pickles and chutneys passed down through the Bhattacharya family. The campfire area is the best spot to enjoy this delicious fare and to embrace the forest's sounds at night.