PETERMEN

Fruits of the sea find a higher plane on Sydney's lower north shore at the Nilands’ latest undertaking

- MATTY HIRSCH

For some diners, the realisation that very good things are going on at Petermen will set in early. It may strike when slender cuts of salted King George whiting hit the table, marinating in a citrusy gordal olive brine that knows better than to outshine the delicate sweetness of the flesh. Or when fat Jervis Bay mussels follow, preserved in a pulpy, dusky achiote vinaigrette with a pleasantly bitter and earthy edge.

For others, the switch might flick later on, over a gargantuan green curry for two that makes a star out of grilled Spanish mackerel, mined with muntries, pea shoots and barbecued cucumber. Then again, there’s a lot to be said for the braised saltbush empanadas, too – crusty, herbaceous and brightened by a piquant, tomatoey Turkish ezme salad.