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Old-school Hakka eatery aims to serve up tradition with a side of innovation

The Straits Times

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November 23, 2025

After 42 years behind the stove, 78-year-old Lai Fak Nian has closed Plum Village Restaurant, his well-loved Hakka eatery in Jalan Leban, and handed over the reins to young restaurateur Chen Yiwen.

- Chin Soo Fang Senior Correspondent

Old-school Hakka eatery aims to serve up tradition with a side of innovation

Mr Lai, who had originally planned to retire in two years, told The Sunday Times he brought forward the decision after his wife suffered a fall. He now spends most of his time caring for her.

He reached out to Ms Chen, 40, a fellow Hakka and advocate of Hakka culture whom he had met at a clan association event. He recalled being impressed by her deep knowledge of Hakka cuisine and her culinary skills.

After a remake that took over three months, the restaurant in the Sembawang Hills area has been renamed Hakka Bond. It opened its doors on Nov 6, ahead of its official launch in December. Another outlet is planned for Funan mall by the end of November.

A design graduate from LASALLE College of the Arts, Ms Chen oversaw the restaurant's interior design and food presentation, emphasising both aesthetics and ambience.

With some past food and beverage (F&B) experience under her belt, she sees herself as both an inheritor of culinary tradition and an innovator.

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