From warungs to fine dining

Why a Malaysian food influencer's upmarket move struck a nerve

- Hazlin Hassan

Influencer Khairul Aming has sparked criticism over his upcoming upmarket Malay restaurant in KL, after he said prices would not be "friendly to all". He has been accused of losing touch with ordinary Malaysians after building an image as a humble champion of everyday Malay fare.

(PHOTOS: KHAIRULAMING/INSTAGRAM)

When one of Malaysia's most relatable food influencers, Mr Khairul Aming, announced plans for a new upmarket Malay restaurant in Kuala Lumpur with prices that would not be "friendly to all", the social media backlash was swift.

"I can't offer cheap prices that are 'friendly to all', honestly speaking," he said of the RM4 million (S$1.3 million) restaurant to be located in the capital city's historic Kampung Baru Malay enclave, a stone's throw from the iconic Petronas Twin Towers.

In an Instagram post that same day, the 33-year-old showed viewers how more than RM500,000 had been spent on kitchen equipment alone.

Almost immediately, social media lit up with criticism - much of it from anonymous netizens and internet trolls - questioning the high prices and accusing him of losing touch with ordinary Malaysians. He has 6.3 million followers on TikTok, 4.4 million on Instagram, and has inspired several Facebook fan pages with one account having nearly half a million members.

"Boycott!!!" declared TikTok user NobodyCare, comparing Mr Khairul's planned eatery with social enterprise eatery Kesum, linked to former economy minister Rafizi Ramli, which sells meals for under RM5.

The pushback was less about whether Malay food deserves fine-dining prices, some observers say, and more about the clash between Mr Khairul's carefully cultivated image as a humble champion of everyday Malay fare, and his decision to step out of his comfort zone into an exclusive, reservation-only dining space.

That image is now being tested.