Why are Londoners being priced out of dining in the capital?

Even middle earners are now expected to fork out £220-plus for a meal for two

- David Ellis

London can stake a convincing claim as the world's greatest city in which to dine out. Forget Paris and New York be damned. Here, there is everything at every level.

A microcosm might be found on Goodge Street, a run from Tottenham Court Road into Fitzrovia. Wander down it and there's a long-standing chain (Spaghetti House, est 1955), a snack bar (Singaporean curry puff slinger Old Chang Kee, excellent), a fast-food joint (Cheat Meals) and, à la mode, a stylish French bistro named 64 Goodge Street. Soon it is to get what is now another of London's typical sights: a restaurant serving a menu few can hope to afford. Enter 3 Gorges, a new Cantonese with a 12-course, £388-a-head offering.

This is not the only menu 3 Gorges is expected to serve: there will be three other options, one at £69 a head, another at £89 a head and the third at £189 a head. But that 3 Gorges can open with the £388 figure with barely an eyelid batting there has been almost no reportage, the Standard aside-speaks to a city that is already fatigued by restaurants fishing for billionaires.

Where else? Japanese steakhouse Aragawa, where the caviar starter is £295 and steaks hit £900. Sushi Kanesaka, £420 per person before drinks or service. House wine? £125. The Araki charges £310, ditto no drinks.