At the table Delicious works of art served up inanartist's lair

Since the tragic demise of Henry Harris's sublime Racine some years ago — and despite his triumphant return with Bouchon Racine in Farringdon a couple of years ago - South Kensington has for me been something of a gastronomic wasteland.

- JASPER CONRAN

Most of the restaurants that I really enjoy are scattered to the four corners of London or in the impenetrable maze of Soho. None are within walking distance of where we live, so I was intrigued to hear that The Lavery was opening its doors in South Ken. It is a short hop and an appetite-inducing skip across the park from us, and for those with inquiring minds, it is conveniently close to the Natural History Museum.

The former home and studio of artist Sir John Lavery, the first floor of this townhouse is a large, white, beautifully proportioned and airy room with generous amounts of ornate plasterwork and its original fireplace still in situ. It is simply but appropriately furnished. The whole thing speaks of quiet, restrained glamour.

The creative vision and team have been conjured up by Martin Cohen, the man who launched Rochelle Canteen. The kitchen is in the very able hands of chef Yohei Furuhashi, who was for nine years at the River Café, later Toklas. Importantly, front of house is the much-loved Alcides Gauto. He too has travelled from Toklas.