SNAZZY TASSIE

Awe-inspiring wilderness, rugged coastline, award-winning produce and a mellow culture – Joanna Whitehead explores Australia’s underrated gem that the crowds are yet to find

- Joanna Whitehead

It’s night-time and I’m walking along a pitch-dark, lonely lane in Stanley, a tiny fishing village on a remote peninsula in the northwest corner of Tasmania (also known as Lutruwita Lutruwita, the Palawa Tasmanian Aboriginal name for the island). The patchwork of stars above me is radiant but my nerves are taut, despite my rational mind knowing there’s little to fear. I freeze, startled, as a wallaby emerges from the darkness, before bouncing away. Finally, the sound of breaking waves on the shoreline swells – and I reach my destination unscathed.

The fine golden sands of Godfrey’s Beach are home to a small colony of little or “fairy” penguins – and it’s past their bedtime. From the safety of a dedicated viewing platform illuminated by special red lights designed not to disturb these charming creatures, I watch with delight as the tiny birds hop, tumble and waddle their way back from the ocean to the safety of their sandy burrows. Standing no taller than a tube of kitchen roll, these pint-sized birds are the smallest of their species in the world, making this twice-daily journey a long one for short legs. The penguins can only be found in southern Australia and New Zealand, making this nature spectacle the perfect end to what has already been an unforgettable day.