Looking to give rice beer its due

Young entrepreneurs are trying to preserve Meghalaya's traditional fermented drink 'bitchi'

- Priyanko Sarkar

While the North-East has a long tradition of brewing rice to make beer and wine, efforts to brand and bottle them are yet to catch on. The relative success of fermented rice beverage brands like Judima and Xaj from Assam has now brought young entrepreneurs from Meghalaya to package and promote the local rice beer of West Garo Hills—chubitchi or bitchi. Startups such as 7 United run by Keenan K. Marak and Chuchekra by Tengnang D. Sangma are trying to preserve the heritage drink and reach a wider market.

Bitchi is made using a starter culture or yeast that has been passed down for generations. It is this yeast that makes it lighter and milder compared to most other rice beers in the North-East. Locals also use a special earthenware jar called diktom that stores the sticky rice while it ferments. "We received a GI tag for bitchi in 2024, and therefore only rice grown in these hills can be used to make it. The sweet and smoky taste is unique to the rice beer from these parts," says Marak.