Vienna’s wine culture is organic and biodynamic

Austria's capital stakes claim as being the only city in the world with a wine-growing region within the city

- Joanna Lobo

A 'buschenschenken' or tavern in Weininger.

On a blustering winter morning, I find myself staring at the autumnal colours creating a patterned carpet on the footpath at Stammersdorf, Vienna. The air is crisp and fresh, much like the wines that this little village at the foot of the Bisamberg Mountain produces.

I am at one of the vineyards Weingut Wieninger, where I try Gemischter Satz, an elegant wine with good acidity.

Gemischter Satz is the quintessential wine of Vienna. A traditional white wine, it has had a protected designation of origin (DAC) since 2013. The growing method involves co-planting, harvesting and fermenting different wine varieties together. It serves as a great introduction to Viennese wines.

Austria's capital stakes claim as being the only city in the world with a wine-growing region within the city. The outer districts, which stretch out on to the hills, offer ideal conditions for growing local varieties like Grüner Veltliner. The city produces over 2 million litres of wine annually, much of which is drunk locally—typically at a wine tavern or buschenschenken or heurigen.

“When you grow up in Vienna, strolling through the vineyards and visiting a traditional wine tavern is simply part of everyday life,” says Caroline Derler, who curates bespoke wine and culinary experiences, and is my wine guide in Vienna.

At my every meal in Vienna, I try these see local wines, from the elegantly crafted meal at Michelin-starred EDVARD Vienna at Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna Hotel to the luxurious lunch at the 12th century Pfarrwirt (which served wines from their own winery, Mayer am Pfarrplatz). “Viennese people are generally patriotic and somewhat conservative when it comes to wine—they tend to prefer wines from Vienna or nearby regions rather than experimenting with international varieties,” says Klaus Lechner, sommelier at EDVARD.