On the kanwar route, devotion and some concerns

Last year, roughly 40 million people undertook the kanwar yatra — a pilgrimage undertaken across the northern heartland every monsoon on foot, buses, motorcycles or cars

- Jignasa Sinha

Dressed in saffron or yellow and a gamchha (towel) slung over their shoulders, millions of men (and some women) pour out of towns and villages across the northern heartland every monsoon, making their way on foot, on buses, motorcycles or cars to the Ganga ghats in Haridwar.

Last year, roughly 40 million people undertook this holy journey that has unfortunately also come to be associated with incidents of vandalism and crime. As the Kanwar Yatra opens, HT travels the 210km (Delhi to Haridwar) route to take stock of public perception - devotion mixed with some anxiety and concern.

STOP 1: Partapur Village, Uttar Pradesh, 60km from Delhi

Fifteen kilometres from Meerut is Partapur village, the first stop of kanwariyas. The streets are lined with around five police tents, 15-20 camps for devotees, two-three medical camps and a fire tender on standby. Vedpal Saini, who runs a roadside eatery, said the pilgrimage is getting bigger every year.

It's good for business, he added, even if there is a caveat.

“If there are 100 good devotees, there are also 10-15 notorious ones who harass people,” said the 44-year-old, and added that while traffic woes trouble the local residents, “business picks up.”

“For at least 10 days, one side of the road is blocked and we can’t even ride a bike. The pilgrims lie down on the road, making it inaccessible,” said Saini.

But he is not complaining; his customers swell fourfold during the kanwariya season.

A UP police constable who asked not to be named said the problem is only with a few of the “daak kanwars”—who do not stop and walk or run continuously — that are impossible to control, with some who are “drunk, creating a ruckus if stopped.”

Otherwise, he adds, it’s just more work

“We have 12 hour long shifts, and no leaves for a month. Our hands are also tied, we can't do much... I just hope each year that no major incident takes place involving the pilgrims.”