This might just be the world’s most beautiful pub

The Hero, Maida Vale 55 Shirland Road, W9 2JUD. Meal for two plus drinks and service, about 130. Open Monday to Thursday, noon-11.30, Friday and Saturday, till midnight, Sunday till 10pm); theherow9.com

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I M a fan of second chances, as anyone who has dated me can wearily attest. I treat them as one of life's necessities (see also: food, water, boat shoes), so had an inkling the Hero in Maida Vale might deserve another run at things as I prodded a pellet of yellow-coloured mayo attempting to pass for curry sauce. "Sorry," I muttered to Twiggs, "I was told this was London's hottest restaurant."

But everywhere has its off days. And, as it happens, crap food is no barrier to somewhere being this city's top ticket - the Wolseley got away with it for years. And the Hero has everything going for it. Owners Phil Winser, James Gummer and Olivier van Themsche are the well-connected kind, having found a hit with the Pelican in Notting Hill (door policy: eights and over, unless you're royalty), and later the Bull in Charlbury (door policy: off the telly).

In Maida, head chef is Ed Baillieu, who worked under Tomos Parry in his career-making Kitty Fisher days, so he's got pedigree. And while the site has failed before Henry Harris, who arguably has the best restaurant in town with Bouchon Racine, couldn't make it work - the area is short of good pubs.