Luke Shepardson - RIDING THE WAVE

How the 27-year-old unsponsored lifeguard claimed victory in a major surfing event-on his lunch break.

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It had been seven years since conditions were right for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational to take place, but on January 22, 2023, word came through: The waves were good. The Eddie was a go.

The Eddie-a surfing event held only when the waves at Waimea Bay exceed 20 feet in height brought thousands of people to the North Shore of Oahu, where Luke Shepardson works as a lifeguard. The 27-year-old North Shore native had long dreamt of competing in the Eddie, and had been invited to sign up after organizers saw him surf the break back in 2016. So this year, despite being on duty that day, Shepardson had permission from his boss to take part during his lunch break. When the time came, the Eddie novice donned his competition jersey, ran into the waves he first rode at age 13-and won. Shepardson scored an incredible 89.1 out of 90, beating some of the world's best surfers and winning the $10,000 prize and the respect of the surfing community.

THE RED BULLETIN: When did I grew up you start surfing?

LUKE SHEPARDSON: surfing with friends and family. It's what I love to do. It keeps me in the present and is always there for me. It helps me get away from stuff if I'm having a hard day. Every time you get out of the water, you go back to whatever you were doing feeling better.

Did you have dreams of making it as a pro as a kid?