Concrete Results

From Argentina to France, these offerings by names like Familia Torres prioritise wine's true beauty.

- Jeff Jenssen and Mike DeSimone

IF GREAT WINE is a work of art, then you might consider the oak barrel in which it’s typically aged as the frame that shows off its best qualities. But just as an ornate setting can draw more attention than the painting, wood can overpower fruit and hide a wine’s true beauty. It’s why an increasing number of cellar masters are ageing in concrete, an old-fashioned method that has never felt more current. The material’s neutral palette ensures that the terroir—and the effects of the season— shine through in your glass.

“Our pursuit is not about creating the perfect wine, but about crafting a wine that tells the story and reflects the characteristics of the place where we live,” explains Sebastián Zuccardi, proprietor of Familia Zuccardi in Mendoza, Argentina. The nation’s winemakers had been using concrete for almost 300 years, until Italian influence made its way west in the late 19th century. “When you also look at the history of wine in our region, it is closely tied to concrete,” Zuccardi says. “For us, concrete is about going back to the future.”

It’s also about meeting current demand. Heavy, overly tannic bottles are losing their appeal among wine lovers who have shifted towards lighter diets. Using concrete enables winemakers to offer vintages with fresher characteristics. This is possible thanks to the slow and steady oxygenation such barrels provide.