THE GIFT OF BECOMING

On the winding paths of the storied Portuguese Camino, a long-overdue present becomes a life-changing discovery.

- Words + Images: SUE D'CRUZ

Every December, without fail, we ask each other the same questions: "What are you giving others this year?" "What should I get my spouse/child/bestie/boss?"Rolls of wrapping paper, mounds of gilt boxes, ribbons, cards, the flurry of malls and online carts, the relentless deliveries and pickups.

We spend weeks—sometimes months—thinking about what to give the people we love. But here's a question we almost never ask: "What are you giving yourself?"

After a gruelling couple of years juggling challenges, I decided it was time for a reset this year. To give myself time to breathe. To think. To heal. To explore. To grow. And it came to me in the most unusual of propositions—the Portuguese Camino.

For those unfamiliar, the Camino de Santiago is a network of centuries-old pilgrimage paths across Europe that lead to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. Also known as the Way of St James, the Camino has become increasingly popular in recent years, not just among Catholics looking to complete one of the religion's definitive pilgrimages, but also among non-Catholics seeking a physical challenge, a travel adventure, or simply spiritual growth.

For me—59, overweight, not accustomed to outdoor activities beyond a regular morning walk around the neighbourhood—the Camino was a real lesson in physical and personal growth. The statistics of it all are intimidating: 15 days, 200km on the official clock but almost 350km with all the meanderings and side trips. This was no holiday, but neither was it a fitness challenge.