Christmas conundrums

Even the most time-honoured festive traditions need to be reviewed once in a while. Giles Kime weighs up the major choices

- Giles Kime

Turkey or goose?

If gastronomy was the point of the festive celebration, turkey might get to make an appearance on our plates more than once a year. Instead, we sit down to heavily laden Desperate Dan-style servings offering a disparate (and unlikely) combination of dishes that is more akin to the buffet at an all-inclusive resort. You have to ask yourself, therefore, if the subtle textures and flavours of goose would sit in this gastronomic free for all. And the answer, if you are honest, would probably be 'no'.

Early or late lunch?

Sticklers who like the turkey sliced on the dot of 1pm ensure that Christmas morning is a mad dash through presents, church and lunch preparations to get there on time. Next, momentum is maintained to ensure the dishwasher is stacked before The King's speech and guests efficiently dispatched before a cup of tea and a slice of Christmas cake. More laid-back types amble through the day to the languid beat of their own drum, with the result that the festive meal tends to be a collective effort served 'some time', rather than the work of some lone soul who is up at dawn to get a head start.

Champagne or non-Champagne?

'When she was good, she was very, very good, but when she was bad, she was horrid' is true not only of the girl with the curl, but all fizz, from Champagne to Prosecco. On the whole, you get what you pay for and, if it's value you are after, head not to northern Italy or Spain, but the Loire Valley or Burgundy, where Crémant de Loire (et Borgougne) is truly the crème de la crème.