Paradise ISLANDS

MESMERISED BY THEIR SUBTROPICAL CHARM, WRITER JANET MCMEEKIN EXPLORES THE ISLES OF SCILLY

- JANET MCMEEKIN

Some moments in life never leave you, and kayaking through crystal-clear waters towards a remote sandbar and lush, deserted islands definitely rates as one of the most magical and unforgettable experiences I've had. You could be forgiven for thinking this Robinson Crusoe-like adventure occurred at some far-flung destination. In fact, the encounter happened much closer to home - just 28 miles off the Cornish coast on the Isles of Scilly, an idyllic, subtropical archipelago I'd been hoping to explore for years.

The Isles of Scilly comprise 140 islands, only five of which are inhabited - St Mary's, Tresco, Bryher, St Martin's and St Agnes. The rest are an island-hopper's paradise of white sands, ancient settlements, shipwrecks and seascapes. I took the hour-long flight on the 19-seater Skybus from Exeter Airport to St Mary's (the largest of the islands), staying at the historic, family-run Star Castle Hotel. The next morning, I wound my way through the narrow streets of Hugh Town to hire a mountain bike.

CYCLING AROUND ST MARY'S

Lured by the prospect of a glimpse of seals, I headed towards Tolls Island, just off secluded Pelistry Bay. Meandering through the country lanes, I was astonished by the variety of wild and subtropical flowers springing up in the hedgerows, and the criss-cross patchwork of tiny fields with centuries-old drystone walls.

There was virtually no traffic and everything seemed incredibly peaceful and safe - like stepping back in time. Pedalling gently around the circumference of St Mary's, I stopped frequently, never once worrying about locking my bike, having been reliably informed that Scilly runs on trust and old-fashioned values.