PUTTING DOWN ROOTS

Why a range of Italian grape varieties are flourishing in Australia's soils, and what the future holds for them

- TOM KLINE

How long is a piece of string?' quips Michael Dal Zotto of Dal Zotto Wines in Victoria's King Valley wine region (pictured on p63) - a pithy yet fitting response to a big question: What's the next big thing for Italian varieties in Australia? 'I have a personal preference for Pinot Bianco,' he adds, 'but Fiano and Montepulciano are definitely appealing to the consumers we show them to.'

These are just a few of the Italian varieties flourishing in Australian vineyards and ultimately in Australian wine glasses. To many outside the country, however, this evolution might come as a surprise. The global perception of Australian wine still often defaults to two extremes: inexpensive, fruity bulk wine and bold, premium Barossa Shiraz.

And while these styles are undeniably significant within the context of Australian wine's journey, they simply don't reflect the full spectrum of the country's ever-evolving wine landscape.

Today, Italian varieties flow through the veins of Australian wine, having found an eminently comfortable home while exemplifying the country's growing diversity and adaptability.

But this shift didn't happen overnight.

Italian varieties have only gained serious traction in Australia over the last three decades- following more than 170 years of dominance by French grapes. Over its rich vinous history, Australia has finely tuned iconic French varieties such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz) and Chardonnay, often rivalling the best from their Old World counterparts (much to the chagrin of the French). Yet, this historical focus on French grapes belies the significant cultural influence of Italian immigrants on Australian life.