THE NEW DUBAI AESTHETIC

From effortless maximalism to a fresh take on quiet luxury, there is more to Dubai’s fashion reputation than the bling-bling it’s long been associated with, reports SUJATA ASSOMULL. Photographed by AQIB ANWAR.

- Styled by DIVYA BALAKRISHNAN and MANGLIEN GANGTE

DUBAI WAS ALWAYS known for high-octane glamour, especially for the South Asian diaspora—think sky-high heels at school drop-offs, It bags worn as armour and enough diamonds (and emeralds) to rival an Ambani wedding. But the city’s dress codes have evolved through many cycles.

I’ve witnessed this first-hand. When my parents moved here in the '90s from London, the city was just opening up to global brands and trends. I once found Fendi Baguettes—the most coveted bag of the time—on sale, something unthinkable elsewhere. But by the early 2000s, international labels recognised Dubai’s immense spending power. Logos became status symbols, and fashion was more about wealth than personal style. Now, a new generation of Dubaians is reshaping its aesthetic.

The post-pandemic influx of fashion-savvy millennials and Gen-Z South Asians from Mumbai, London and Hong Kong is seeing a fusion of maximalism and minimalism in a fresh way: indulgent yet effortlessly cool. And deeply personal. Anoli Shah, a stylist born in Ahmedabad who worked in Mumbai before relocating to Dubai five years ago, says, “Comfort has taken centre stage—something that wasn't as much of a priority before. Women here have developed an understanding of functional pieces and the role of elevated essentials, but they like to style them with statement pieces. It will always be a city that loves its luxury.”

Bling remains central to Dubai’s fashion DNA, but how women wear it is shifting. “They may own the Alhambra bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels but choose to use it as a bag charm instead of wearing it as a bracelet,” Shah notes. “Women here have a strong arm-stack game, effortlessly mixing metals—brass alongside silver and gold, even paired with a heritage diamond bangle—with ease and confidence.”