Re-fashioning folklore

Designers are revisiting their origins to draw inspiration from their roots and culture, and the result is collections that wow us, finds Manish Mishra

- Manish Mishra

Fashion as an applied art form has always been a crucible of creativity, often catalysing conversations between craft and couture, savoir-faire and style. Over the last few seasons, a litany of homegrown Indian labels are alchemising heritage with futurism. By looking inwards and celebrating art and craft forms indigenous to our country, these designers are initiating a cultural dialogue. One in which fashion sublimates folklore, ancient crafts get a new voice, art forms take the shape of kaleidoscopic prints, and rarefied weaving techniques get a contemporary touch.

For instance, designer duo Shivan Bhatiya and Narresh Kukreja's trip to the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan inspired their recent 'Fresconian Series'. A modern rendition of their exploration of the walls of these Shekhawati havelis and their painterly quality was interpreted as five distinct prints by the brand.

Designer Shruti Sancheti's last outing titled, "Alchemy' evoked the frescoes and murals of her home town called Churu, also in Shekhawati. The ensembles echoed the folk music of dhola maru and the intricate miniature woodcraft synonymous with various communities in the region.

Similarly Aarti Vijay Gupta in her offerings has artfully celebrated Gond art, Mandana art, Indian miniature paintings and Madhubani over the years. Also worth mentioning is designer Karan Torani, who has always toasted his Sindhi roots in his collections and campaigns incorporating folk music and rituals steeped in symbolism.