RIVER RUN

From outback pubs to reborn wetlands, a drive along the Darling River reveals the rich history and raw beauty of outback New South Wales

- KEV SMITH

Winding its way through outback New South Wales, the Darling River has long been a lifeline — from sustaining the Barkindji people for tens of thousands of years, to guiding explorers, supporting riverboat trade and shaping the pastoral frontier of inland Australia.

I've driven along the Darling River a few times now, and it never fails to deliver. This time, our journey began in the historic and surprisingly vibrant town of Bourke. Explorer Charles Sturt passed through the area in the late 1820s while searching for the fabled inland sea, famously noting in his journal that it was “unlikely to become the haunt of civilised man.” He couldn’t have been more wrong. Within a few decades, the region was thriving, and the river became a vital trade route. By 1880, Bourke had grown into a major transport hub for southwest Queensland and western New South Wales, with paddle steamers hauling massive loads of wool downriver each season.

These days, Bourke remains a key hub for outback travellers — not just to top up on fuel and supplies before heading bush, but also to soak up some rich local history. There’s plenty to see and do, from the old Darling River wharf and historic centre-lift bridge to nearby stations and the grand heritage-listed buildings lining the main street. When we visited, the river was in flood and still rising, so a cruise on the paddle steamer was off the cards — but there was no shortage of things to explore on dry land.