Valley's Morel Magic

THE RARE HIMALAYAN MUSHROOM, KANGECH, WHICH GROWS IN JAMMU AND KASHMIR, WILL LEAVE YOU WITH AN UNFORGETTABLE AFTERTASTE

- Zehru Nissa

WHEN THE sky turns cloudy in March, Resham Begum prays that she would hear thunderclaps at night and that the lightning would shine through the window of her mud house in Nagsari forest of Lolab area in Jammu and Kashmir’s Kupwara district. “Lightening makes the Kangech sprout from the earth,” she quips. Kangech is the local name for the rare Himalayan mushrooms, the gucchii morels, also referred to as Morchella esculenta.

Begum starts early, and along with her three children—aged between eight and 12—climbs the denser area of the forest. Each member carries a scarf-sized cloth to carry the little treasures and a few thick pieces of bread to sustain them while on the hunt. “On some days, we collect so many Kangech that we find it difficult to carry back,” says Begum. Morel collection is the main occupation of the family for most days in March and April. Begum sun-dries the morels on her rooftop, spread evenly on a straw mat.

By the time a gashnaghar (local broker) arrives in the village, Begum’s family has managed to collect a stock of Kangech that sells for 5,000 to 7,000. The price is not based on weight or number of morels. “He just offers a price to the stock we have collected, usually four of these baskets,” Begum says, showing a large cane basket which can hold about 20 liters.