In The Kitchen

As the year draws to a close Jojo finds ways to preserve summer’s flavour through the raw months, and makes the most of a glut of grapes

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There is a rawness to gardening at this time of year. The wind bites and fingers stumble numbly over simple tasks. I often like the idea of winter gardening more than the reality but I still want to cook with something I’ve grown, even if it’s just a herb. Sage lives in a pot on the stone steps outside my kitchen door. Its soft, grey-green leaves are always good to stop and smell, and by frying them with butter you can use them to make the simplest of all sauces for stuffed pasta. Put the pasta (ravioli, tortellini or agnolotti) on to boil. Melt 100g of butter and fry with 16 sage leaves, let the butter caramelise and the solids separate but not burn and then add a ladleful of the pasta water, the sauce should foam and start to thicken. Add the drained pasta (just slightly undercooked) and cook for another 30 seconds on a medium heat, the sauce should be velvety and coat the pasta. Serve with lots of parmesan and black pepper.

Flavoured vinegars