CITY OF GOLD

Ballarat is having a moment with its mix of old-world charm and vibrant new places to eat, drink and stay, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

- MICHAEL HARDEN.

The entrance hall of the Art Gallery of Ballarat is a riot of colour, the vast wall above its impressive timber and wrought-iron staircase salon hung with exuberant modern art that hums and pulses with energy. According to director Louise Tegart, who joined Australia’s oldest and largest gallery three years ago and revolutionised the way it displays its lauded collection, the entrance hang is a reaction to the gloom of lockdown. It also perfectly encapsulates what’s happening in Ballarat right now – a joyful, energetic and exciting collision of the old and the new.

Victoria’s third largest city, a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, is having a moment. A new generation of creatives and entrepreneurs, supported by an enthusiastic council, have been colonising the marvellous Victorian streetscapes that define this gold rush-era city. An impressive range of places to eat, drink and stay has emerged, backed by a packed calendar of festivals and cultural events (this year’s Ballarat International Foto Biennale is featuring the work of Linda McCartney) and generating a buzz similar to post-MONA Hobart. Little wonder it was named a UNESCO Creative City in 2019. The name Ballarat may loosely translate from the language of the Wadawurrung traditional owners as “resting place” but right now, resting is well down on the list of things to do.

EAT

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