Behind the veil

Known as the Indian fashion industry’s retro revivalist, Sabyasachi Mukherjee has built a brand on being proudly and unapologetically Indian. Vogue India’s editor, Megha Kapoor, speaks with the man behind the country’s biggest nuptials

- Megha Kapoor

THE ‘SABYA WEDDING’ is a moniker used for a certain brand of Indian weddings witnessed at home and away, for a look that blends the traditional and modern. Weddings, as couturier Sabyasachi Mukherjee knows, are big business. An estimated 25 lakh weddings were anticipated across India just between November 14 and December 13, 2021, according to a Confederation of All India Traders (CAIT) report. The three-day mega social event has become our greatest cultural export to the world, all while playing a supporting role to surrounding industries, from thousands of karigars to jewellery, travel and hospitality. Here, we discover how Mukherjee became a covetable cultural phenomenon and a ₹271 crore-strong business as of January 2021, 20-odd years after he dressed his first bride.

MEGHA KAPOOR The Sabya Wedding is more than just a concept. It’s synonymous with what is perceived as the gold standard of the Indian wedding, one of our biggest cultural exports. How did that come about for you?