Bordeaux's Middle Ground

The 2014 Vintage Is a Goldilocks Year, Balanced In Style and in Price.

- James Molesworth

Bordeaux has traveled a bumpy road in recent years. Following the classic duo of 2009 and 2010, the region saw a run of three vintages that trended downward in quality, culminating with 2013, an especially difficult harvest. But now comes 2014, which delivers outstanding wines—and at prices that look to be very attractive for U.S. buyers.

Overall the 2014 reds are more than solid, showing pure expressions of fruit and terroir. In addition, the dry whites and the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes are exceptional. When it comes to 2014 Bordeaux, it’s the right vintage at the right time.

My initial report on 2014 (“A Goldilocks Vintage,” June 30, 2015), based on my barrel tastings, recognized the year’s outstanding potential. Having now reviewed more than 675 bottled 2014s in blind tastings conducted in Wine Spectator’s New York office and in Bordeaux I rate the vintage 93 points for Left Bank reds and 91 points for Right Bank reds. (A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all 2014 Bordeaux tasted is available at www.winespectator .com/033117.)

The reds show a profile that plays right down the middle, neither too hot nor too cold, neither too big nor too lean. Though not a classic vins de garde year, the best wines will certainly develop well over the next two decades. The whites, often overshadowed, deserve close attention as well, in both dry and late harvest versions. I give the vintage an overall rating of 96 points for the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes.

For reds, the vintage’s strong suit is in the upper Médoc appellations of St.-Julien, Pauillac and St.-Estèphe. On the Right Bank, the cluster of châteaus situated on the limestone plateau of St.Emilion are the standouts. Of the more than 550 2014 reds in this report, 20 earn classic ratings of 95 points or higher on