The Ripe Stuff

In a quest for perfection, Australian cheesemakers are embracing the ageing process

- Will Studd

There’s a world of difference between a young, immature cheese and a skilfully ripened cheese in perfect condition. Controlling this wonderful transformation is a crucial step in the cheesemaking process, and requires skill, patience, careful observation and a special empathy.

In Europe, the link between cheesemaker and customer is traditionally undertaken by an expert. Known as an affineur in France and stagionatura in Italy, the job involves selecting young cheese to mature in temperature and humidity-controlled cellars thriving with unique local moulds and bacteria until they reach their optimum potential. Many of the well-known benchmarks have strict regulations on how and where they’re matured to ensure their authentic regional character, their terroir, isn’t compromised.