Sweet Dreams

Shyam Sunder Aggarwal is the man behind a culinary empire that best reflects the amalgamation of Indian traditions and modern technology. MARWAR finds out more about the man, whose vision morphed a simple halwai shop into an international brand known the world over as Bikanervala.

- Aanchal Kataria

THE CULINARY HISTORY OF DELHI WOULD BE incomplete without the mention of the Bikanervalas, who have been in the business of Indian mithais and snacks for generations now. After perfecting the art of making gourmet delights in the city of Bikaner in Rajasthan for over a century, the family–the Aggarwals–expanded the business by opening an outlet in Delhi’s famous Chandni Chowk in 1950. Delhiites fondly called them ‘Bikanervala’.

Success was immediate. Over the years, riding on a reputation of uncompromised quality, the name has transformed into an international brand selling Indian sweets, snacks and gourmet delights to patrons across the globe. And all this would not have been possible without the talent and insight of Shyam Sunder Aggarwal, the managing director of Bikanervala.

His claim to fame is the Kaju ki Barfi, which he says is his contribution to the world of Indian sweets. Surprisingly, he himself prefers Agre ka Petha. The culinary czar also admits it is his drive to present the rich culinary tradition of India to the world.

The initial years

“I really enjoyed my childhood. Growing up in Bikaner was a joy. I was not interested in studies and was always exploring the outdoors, running around in the streets and fields. I was fond of sweets and used to stop at the family shop on way back from school,” he recalls.