WALKING in rural Spain

Discover the calm, the charm and the culture of the wild Catalonian countryside

- JENNY ROWE

Spain has brought itself in step with the world of walking tourism, and what beauty and harmony it has found! While the Canary Islands and Pyrenees attract many keen British walkers, those who are in the know head north-east from Barcelona into the peace of the surrounding countryside.

For, in Catalonia, you'll find a gentler alternative to your usual, more austere mountain-walking holiday - but without forgoing the sense of exploration and the scenic variety that makes it exciting. The region is rugged without being rundown; wild but never too far from civilisation; and stubbornly green even in a dry year. Keep it our secret!

Medieval base

While it's only a two-hour drive from Barcelona, Rupit will soon make you soon forget about Catalonia's cosmopolitan capital_ The unspoilt 10th-century village, reached by winding mountain roads, feels a world away from the urban buzz.

Dominating the valley and built high into the cliff-side, the strikingly well-preserved settlement is swaddled by a meandering river. Rupit wakes up above the morning mist at 822m above sea level - a leg-up that doesn't go unnoticed when taking on the Collsacabra mountains that lie on its doorstep. Meanwhile, the handful of bakeries, bars and cafes, plus a pharmacy and bank, all run by friendly locals, mean you can wave a resolute goodbye to city stress.