Another ile with appeal

The lle d'Oléron, on France's spectacular west coast, allows Peter Baber to savour sounds, citadels - and submarines!

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THE ILE DE RÉ, lying halfway down the west coast of France, has in recent years become something of a prime destination for caravanners in the know, because it has fine beaches, with proper waves and miles of fabulous sand, not to mention a handful of pretty seaside resorts.

The island does have one snag, however, and that is the cost of getting there. At the time of writing, the toll to cross the bridge with a caravan was at least €16 between June and September (realistically, the only months when the sea is likely to be warm enough for an enjoyable swim), although you can get a seasonal pass if you are stay for a long time.

Exploring further afield

So should you tire of spending time on the island (and for all of its charming scenery, we are essentially talking about a sandbank only a few miles long) and want to explore further afield, even just for the day, you’ll have to shell out €16 every time.

That’s before you’ve begun to consider the cost of parking, museum fees, eating out and so on.

Fortunately, an alternative is available. Just a few miles south of Ile de Ré, on the other side of marvellous La Rochelle and in effect, in the same water system, lies another island, with beaches that are just as spectacular and towns that are equally pretty. And the bridge you need to cross to get there is, for the moment at least, completely free of charge.

Not that you would necessarily want to leave Ile d’Oléron the moment you arrive. Your first impressions as you drive over the bridge might be connected with salt and oysters – both form the basis of significant industries around here. But this soon gives way to pine forests, with the occasional tantalising glimpse of a beach.