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WINGS OF CHANGE

Outlook Traveller

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June - July 2025

IT ALL BEGAN IN 2008 AT Bompu, in Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary, Arunachal Pradesh. I had recently left my corporate job and was on a three-week birding trip, contemplating how best to contribute to nature conservation in the next chapter of my life.

- SANJAY SONDHI

WINGS OF CHANGE

There I met Arpan Sharma and Kamal Medhi of Samrakshan Charitable Trust, an NGO focused on environmental protection. Arpan invited me to collaborate on a conservation and livelihood initiative in the Garo Hills, Meghalaya. That chance encounter marked the beginning of what would become a 15-year association with the Garo tribe.

THE JOURNEY

Between 2009 and 2015, Samrakshan and Titli Trust conducted extensive biodiversity assessments across the Garo Hills. Initially, we focused on avifaunal surveys, as we believed bird tourism could provide a strong incentive for conservation. However, during our fieldwork, we were struck by the incredible diversity of butterflies—called meplip in the local language.

Since 2009, we have spent over 125 days surveying the region's butterflies and documented nearly 400 species. Some of these are rare and special, including the Zigzag Flat, Yellow Flat, Chequered Lancer, Grey Baron, Branded Yamfly, Blue Begum, Branded Yeoman, Redtail and Banded Marquis, Marbled Map, Koh-i-noor, Brahmaputra Palmfly, Jezebel Palmfly, Yellow Gorgon, Chain Swordtail, and Long-tailed Punch. Today, the Garo Hills have firmly established themselves as a "must-visit" destination for butterfly watchers in India.

THE SUCCESSES

FLERE HISTORIER FRA Outlook Traveller

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Outlook Traveller

SUMMER'S SURRENDER

THREE DAYS IN ZÜRICH THROUGH ITS OLD TOWN, THE LIMMAT'S RHYTHM AND THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE GHOSTLY GALLEON

IN SCOTLAND'S ISLE OF SKYE, the weather is never still.

time to read

1 min

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE SOLE MEMORY

I WAS LOOKING FOR A SHOE shop to get my favourite pair repaired. The August Texan heat had loosened the sole on one of them. In other times, I would have thrown the pair away rather than go through the trouble of finding a repair shop. But I loved these shoes and searched for someone to bring them back to life.

time to read

2 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE LAST MILE

EVERY EVENING AT 4.30 PM, IN Hussainiwala, Punjab, a crowd gathers near the National Martyrs Memorial.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE MARQUESS AND THE MAESTRO

FROM GILDED ROCOCO PALACES TO WAGNER'S AWE-INSPIRING FESTSPIELHAUS, BAYREUTH TELLS A STORY OF TWO LEGACIES-ONE ROYAL, ONE MUSICAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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Outlook Traveller

A FLEETING COMMUNION

THE RITUAL IMMERSION OF DURGA IDOLS IN THE ICHAMATI RIVER TEMPORARILY TRANSGRESSES THE MANMADE DEMARCATIONS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST BENGAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

'DEEPOTSAV' 2025: AYODHYA'S FESTIVAL OF LIGHT RETURNS IN GRAND STYLE

Rooted in the Ramayana and reborn in recent years as a global spectacle, 'Deepotsav' has transformed Ayodhya into a city of light and faith. This year's edition, on October 19, promises to be the biggest yet

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE GREAT INDIAN DESTINATION WEDDING

SHAPED BY TRAVEL, TASTE, AND A RESTLESS GENERATION, DESTINATION WEDDINGS ARE REWRITING HOW INDIA CELEBRATES MARRIAGE IN 2025

time to read

8 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

WHERE MEMORY LIVES ON

ON A CLOUDY JULY AFTERNOON IN DAWAR, THE main hub of Gurez Valley and once the ancient capital of the Dards, I stood in its Tulaili bazaar waiting for a shared taxi.

time to read

4 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE BORDERLESS GURU

THE AIR IS THIN, TINGED with the scent of juniper. A swift wind whips through faded prayer flags, while glaciers carve valleys and jagged peaks pierce a sky the colour of lapis lazuli. Standing here, the idea of political borders feels almost absurd. Maps may mark out India, Nepal, Bhutan, or Tibet, but the landscape itself refuses to be partitioned. These mountains carry a shared heritage, embodied by a single figure who transcends frontiers: Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. Known as Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century. His image gazes out from gompas across the Himalayas-wrathful yet compassionate, eyes filled with the wisdom of lifetimes. To see him only as a missionary is to miss the larger truth.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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