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MEMORY'S OASIS

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August - September 2024

REMEMBRANCES OF GROWING UP IN SEALDAH RAILWAY OFFICERS COLONY IN KOLKATA

- DR MADHURA BANDYOPADHYAY

MEMORY'S OASIS

IF YOU EVER VISIT THE concrete jungle around Sealdah station in Kolkata, you will see swarms of people packed into the roads moving in streams under a roaring monster of a flyover, a sea of heads making little eddies around stationery hawkers standing beside their tarpaulin-covered stalls, while street mongrels sleep in supreme nonchalance beside open dumpsters. You may sidestep a few slippery banana peels or small mounds of peanut shells until you make your way down A.J.C. Bose Road to the entrance of Kaiser Street. Once you pass the archway that signals the Divisional Railway Manager (DRM) building and past the thin guy selling mixed chanachur, roasted in hot sand in an iron kadhai over a fire, you will enter the gates of the green oasis that is Sealdah Railway Officers Colony.

When we were growing up in the 1980s, this walled space presented a big contrast to the surrounding north and central Kolkata. The road inside was tree-lined with green spaces between five buildings. When afternoon kalbaishakhis (norwesters) cooled hot summer days, we kids rushed out onto the green grass to collect buds of fallen Krishnachura flowers. We sat underneath those shady trees, opened up green buds to reveal red, half-formed petals. We stuck them on our fingers, like long nails, before we were ever aware of manicures. Later, we would dig up some mud, make tiny bowls of clay, dry them in the sun and play rannabati, role-playing household chores until a strict mom would send the bungalow peon’s wife to call us back.

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THREE DAYS IN ZÜRICH THROUGH ITS OLD TOWN, THE LIMMAT'S RHYTHM AND THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

time to read

5 mins

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THE GHOSTLY GALLEON

IN SCOTLAND'S ISLE OF SKYE, the weather is never still.

time to read

1 min

October - November 2025

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THE SOLE MEMORY

I WAS LOOKING FOR A SHOE shop to get my favourite pair repaired. The August Texan heat had loosened the sole on one of them. In other times, I would have thrown the pair away rather than go through the trouble of finding a repair shop. But I loved these shoes and searched for someone to bring them back to life.

time to read

2 mins

October - November 2025

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THE LAST MILE

EVERY EVENING AT 4.30 PM, IN Hussainiwala, Punjab, a crowd gathers near the National Martyrs Memorial.

time to read

3 mins

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THE MARQUESS AND THE MAESTRO

FROM GILDED ROCOCO PALACES TO WAGNER'S AWE-INSPIRING FESTSPIELHAUS, BAYREUTH TELLS A STORY OF TWO LEGACIES-ONE ROYAL, ONE MUSICAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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A FLEETING COMMUNION

THE RITUAL IMMERSION OF DURGA IDOLS IN THE ICHAMATI RIVER TEMPORARILY TRANSGRESSES THE MANMADE DEMARCATIONS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST BENGAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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'DEEPOTSAV' 2025: AYODHYA'S FESTIVAL OF LIGHT RETURNS IN GRAND STYLE

Rooted in the Ramayana and reborn in recent years as a global spectacle, 'Deepotsav' has transformed Ayodhya into a city of light and faith. This year's edition, on October 19, promises to be the biggest yet

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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THE GREAT INDIAN DESTINATION WEDDING

SHAPED BY TRAVEL, TASTE, AND A RESTLESS GENERATION, DESTINATION WEDDINGS ARE REWRITING HOW INDIA CELEBRATES MARRIAGE IN 2025

time to read

8 mins

October - November 2025

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WHERE MEMORY LIVES ON

ON A CLOUDY JULY AFTERNOON IN DAWAR, THE main hub of Gurez Valley and once the ancient capital of the Dards, I stood in its Tulaili bazaar waiting for a shared taxi.

time to read

4 mins

October - November 2025

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THE BORDERLESS GURU

THE AIR IS THIN, TINGED with the scent of juniper. A swift wind whips through faded prayer flags, while glaciers carve valleys and jagged peaks pierce a sky the colour of lapis lazuli. Standing here, the idea of political borders feels almost absurd. Maps may mark out India, Nepal, Bhutan, or Tibet, but the landscape itself refuses to be partitioned. These mountains carry a shared heritage, embodied by a single figure who transcends frontiers: Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. Known as Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century. His image gazes out from gompas across the Himalayas-wrathful yet compassionate, eyes filled with the wisdom of lifetimes. To see him only as a missionary is to miss the larger truth.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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