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IF WALLS COULD SPEAK

Outlook Traveller

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February - March 2024

POETICALLY LOCATED IN THE HEART OF MP, MANDU IS A CITY THAT TELLS THE TALES OF MANY LOVES

- ANTARAA CHATTERJEE

IF WALLS COULD SPEAK

HERE ARE CITIES THAT EPITOMISE LOVE, THERE ARE CITIES THAT inspire poets to write about love, and then there is Mandu. The small city, so steeped in its historical love story that it has now become its very identity. Mandavgarh, more popularly known as Mandu, lies poetically enough in the heart of Madhya Pradesh atop the Vindhya Range. This ancient city guards a trove of treasured stories in its walls, its stones and the memories of its people.

Mandu's historical roots trace back to the 6th century when it served as an outpost of the Gupta Empire. However, it rose to prominence during the 10th and 11th centuries under the Parmar rulers. The city's fate took a dramatic turn in the 14th century when it became the capital of the Malwa Sultanate, led by the illustrious Afghan ruler Dilawar Khan. Subsequently, Mandu became a melting pot of diverse cultures, weaving a rich legacy of Hindu and Afghan influences.

In Mandu, you don't get lost geographically; it's the history that takes you in. Entering the city through one of its seven gates, the gravel of the streets crunch beneath your feet as you make your way to the usual circuit of the famous monuments. Mandu is also a city of incredible acoustics with various structures and their many bricks carrying the past within. Each of them has their own story to tell, but one stands out above all the others.

THE MONUMENTAL LOVE

Mandu is perhaps best known for the poignant love story of Baz Bahadur, the last independent ruler of Mandu, and his beloved consort, Rani Roopmati. Their romance is immortalised in the architectural wonders that dot the city.

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SUMMER'S SURRENDER

THREE DAYS IN ZÜRICH THROUGH ITS OLD TOWN, THE LIMMAT'S RHYTHM AND THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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THE GHOSTLY GALLEON

IN SCOTLAND'S ISLE OF SKYE, the weather is never still.

time to read

1 min

October - November 2025

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THE SOLE MEMORY

I WAS LOOKING FOR A SHOE shop to get my favourite pair repaired. The August Texan heat had loosened the sole on one of them. In other times, I would have thrown the pair away rather than go through the trouble of finding a repair shop. But I loved these shoes and searched for someone to bring them back to life.

time to read

2 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE LAST MILE

EVERY EVENING AT 4.30 PM, IN Hussainiwala, Punjab, a crowd gathers near the National Martyrs Memorial.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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Outlook Traveller

THE MARQUESS AND THE MAESTRO

FROM GILDED ROCOCO PALACES TO WAGNER'S AWE-INSPIRING FESTSPIELHAUS, BAYREUTH TELLS A STORY OF TWO LEGACIES-ONE ROYAL, ONE MUSICAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

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A FLEETING COMMUNION

THE RITUAL IMMERSION OF DURGA IDOLS IN THE ICHAMATI RIVER TEMPORARILY TRANSGRESSES THE MANMADE DEMARCATIONS BETWEEN EAST AND WEST BENGAL

time to read

5 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

'DEEPOTSAV' 2025: AYODHYA'S FESTIVAL OF LIGHT RETURNS IN GRAND STYLE

Rooted in the Ramayana and reborn in recent years as a global spectacle, 'Deepotsav' has transformed Ayodhya into a city of light and faith. This year's edition, on October 19, promises to be the biggest yet

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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Outlook Traveller

THE GREAT INDIAN DESTINATION WEDDING

SHAPED BY TRAVEL, TASTE, AND A RESTLESS GENERATION, DESTINATION WEDDINGS ARE REWRITING HOW INDIA CELEBRATES MARRIAGE IN 2025

time to read

8 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

WHERE MEMORY LIVES ON

ON A CLOUDY JULY AFTERNOON IN DAWAR, THE main hub of Gurez Valley and once the ancient capital of the Dards, I stood in its Tulaili bazaar waiting for a shared taxi.

time to read

4 mins

October - November 2025

Outlook Traveller

Outlook Traveller

THE BORDERLESS GURU

THE AIR IS THIN, TINGED with the scent of juniper. A swift wind whips through faded prayer flags, while glaciers carve valleys and jagged peaks pierce a sky the colour of lapis lazuli. Standing here, the idea of political borders feels almost absurd. Maps may mark out India, Nepal, Bhutan, or Tibet, but the landscape itself refuses to be partitioned. These mountains carry a shared heritage, embodied by a single figure who transcends frontiers: Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. Known as Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century. His image gazes out from gompas across the Himalayas-wrathful yet compassionate, eyes filled with the wisdom of lifetimes. To see him only as a missionary is to miss the larger truth.

time to read

3 mins

October - November 2025

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